they are all brothers

I’ m in Saida, south of Beirut, by the sea — I’ m blogging from an Internet cafe in the basement, a type of mausoleum, with Arabic song on the background.


It was an adventure coming here. First I got two ” service taxis” to Cola, the supposedly bus station in Beirut — there’ s no bus station in Lebanon. Traffic in Beirut is crazy. Everyone horning nonstop. No rules at all. I mean it. I’ ve been to Mumbai, Bali, Ho Chi Min City etc: here there’s just no rule. No right way of driving. All is possible. I wonder why they have those plates here…

The second taxi driver was quite friendly, altough no English or French was spoken. Then I got a minibus, packed with 13 people, for mere 3,000 Lebanese Lira (LL) or USD$ 2.

Arriving in Saida, some 35 Km south of Beirut, I see I’m on the right place: a bunch of street vendors, food everywhere, locals — no tourists at all.

I went to (just) take a picture of some sweets then of course I was tempted and had a delicious kneffe— a mix of salty and sweet bread with melting cheese and a sweet sauce that is similar to honey. Simple delicious!!!

While I was standing in the middle of the pavement, of course some young men came to talk to me — or at least try to talk to me. They spoke no French, and just a couple of words in English. I always say I’m from Brazil, which makes things more interesting, after all, football is an international language… Kaka, Rivaldo, Romario, Ronaldo and so on…

Further on, another youngman with red beard and red hair came to talk to me and said “pleasure to meet you, I’ m palestinian”. If he said he was Jewish, I’ d truly believe him.

I walked through an open food market. Fruits, sfihas, patatoes, vegetables, and goats’ heads…. goat’s stomach, brain etc. After that sweet smell, I strolled down the street and had a huge falafel. Who said this is Israeli? Again, amost all is the same… the landscape, vegetation, food, faces…

Still, war is part of their lives… Yesterday talking to Iman’s cousin, he said: “come during summer, it’s great, but it’s when Israel bombs us, because that’s when their satellites work better due to weather conditions”.

stop the fuck war - in the armenian quarter, beirut
stop the fuck war – in the armenian quarter, beirut

3 comentários sobre “they are all brothers

  1. ¡muy preciososa la narrativa, pedro!

    congratulación, el blog me hace mucha hambre, y los aspecto políticos siempre muy esclarecedores. quien ha dito que las viajes son como una inmersión en el espejo de la alma? no importa. lo que importa es que dieter, achmed, vikas y seamus me han recomendado el VIA FO CO, y ca estoy yo!

    ¡¡¡tiene que visitarme en ca en el salvador, se le va encantar!!! usted puede tomar muchas fotos de mi rico chorizo. ¡¡¡un regallo muy saboroso, te dejará con la boca llena de delicosa carne!!!

    hasta la vista,

    ramón (de lo chorizo)


  2. Pedro!
    Tenho visto que muitas pessoas te convidam para conhecer alguma comida especial de suas cidades . Andei dando uma procurada e não encontrei comida típica candanga!!
    E agora? Quando vc passar por BSB eu te convido pra comer o quê? Só me resta apelar para o meu “famoso pavê de caipirinha”: a verdadeira jóia do ocidente!!!!!!!!!
    Nada candango, mas uma delícia!!!!


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